Perhaps to its detriment, the island of Koh Phangan in the Gulf of Thailand has become infamous for the Full Moon parties that rage monthly through the town of Haadrin. International media coverage and even local perception in neighboring provinces is often unfavorable. I often find, that, when Koh Phangan comes up in conversation, Thais and tourists alike raise their eyebrows slightly, give a knowing smirk, and make a dismissive remark about the island as if crazed partying were all that Koh Phangan had to offer.

The reality could not be farther from the truth.  While the entire island does see an influx of tourists during the full moon, only the the strip between Thongsala and Haadrin truly comes close to living up to the island’s party reputation,  and that is only true for a few days on either side of the Full Moon Party. Haadrin is located on Koh Phangan’s Southern tip, overlooking the highly developed neighboring island of Koh Samui. It is separated from the rest of the island by a steep mountain range that can only be traversed by a narrow two lane road to the main town of Thongsala. Peace is not as difficult to find as you might think.

If you really are put off by the notion of the Full Moon Party but still wish to experience Koh Phangan, there is a solution. Located on the Northern side of the island, as far away as you can possibly get from Haadrin by road (or by boat for that matter), is Chaloklum Fishing Village, or Baan Chaloklum, as it is known locally. Chaloklum and Haadrin could not be more different, despite the fact that they both occupy the same 168 square kilometer slab of rock in the Gulf of Thailand. Where Haadrin seems overrun with sun-kissed and alcohol crazed, gap-year backpackers on a tear, Chaloklum is a laid-back fishing community which has managed to keep its Thai charm while providing a high level of services, activities and amenities for tourists, travelers and long-stay residents. [read the full article…]